Summary of TRESB Project

TRESB PROJECT
 The Problem which lead to the TRESB Project:
The problem that lead to the TRESB project was that in the 1950's the enterence of the Tweed River became a hazard to shipping because of sandbars that were forming across the river mouth.
The Soultion to the problem:

The solution to solve the problem of the beaches immediately north of the Tweed being deprived of the natural supply of sand, the

accumulating sand at the river mouth was periodically dredged and trucked to the Gold Coast where it was used for beach nourishment.

The result of the project. What areas are effected and how? Do you think that it was a success?

The sand is pumped from the South side of the beach (where the Tweed River mouth is) to other beaches around the area, that way they get more sand but they may get more sand then needed. I think it is a success because at least it prevents the formation of sandbars building up across the Tweed River mouth.

                                                     

Transverse Waves

A transverse wave is a moving wave that consists of oscillations occurring perpendicular to the direction of energy transfer. If a transverse wave is moving in the positive x-direction, its oscillations are in up and down directions that lie in the y-z plane.
Transverse waves were discovered by a man who was sitting on a beach with his family in Queensland, near Noosa. He was sitting there when he discovered that the waves consisted of oscillations that were occurring perpendicular to the energy transfer. So he went home that night and thought of a name and he had measured the size of the wave.
The wind comes from a North direction near Papua New Guinea. Thats close to wear they start and they come down.

It is very close to where the Great Barrier Reef is. However it is not exactly on the Great Barrier Reef. It is on the beach near Noosa.
Where the waves occur is all over but it happens a lot near Noosa, where the beach is. 
These waves in my opinion would be fine to surf, though they may be little small as some surfers like the waves bigger, but not too big.

Science of Big Waves

PRE-VIEW QUESTIONS
1. Where do ocean waves come from? What gets them started?
   Ocean Waves come from out to sea but they only break near the beach, of where the sand is. The wind causes the waves but it can sometimes be caused by a natural hazard such as a hurricane or tornado.

2. What do you think a surfer should know about waves before they try and ride a wave while surfing?
     They should know about what causes waves, about how waves are formed, about all the types of wave  types and currents. They should know the weather for that day, whether it be a tornado day or just windy day or whether it is a nice day.

VIDEO QUESTIONS
1. Some of the waves that were seen were constructive waves which are small-low waves that deposit sand onto the beach. There was also what looked like a destructive wave which is a large wave that is formed by a tropical cyclone or storm. There looked like longshore drift as well that was also seen at the beach; it is where the wave or drift drifts down the coast. One more thing seen was refraction, which is the bending of waves around headlands and into bays and surf and swash.

2. Waves are formed by the weather. The weather forms the waves depending on the weather, so if it's good weather such as a nice day the waves should be fine but if it's windy and a nice day or windy and a bad day the waves will more likely become big and really good for surfers but that is when it becomes dangerous because of currents and longshore drift. The wind blows the top of the ocean and so it moves the top of which the energy moves around and around. If there is a tropical cyclone or a tornado then the waves become very dangerous and unsafe to be near the beach. Fetch is the distance that wind travels over the ocean to form waves, wavelength is the horizontal distance between peaks (of the waves) is also used to measure waves and wave height is the vertical distance between the trough and the peak of the wave is another way of measuring waves.


3. A maverick wave is a hug wave smaller than a tsunami but is still very big. It is described as a Mount Everest of the surfing world. Most people who try and surf it fail and get injured. It can often catch surfers unaware.

4. Energy is stored and transferred by the wind. The wind moves the top of the surface of the water and makes it move, and so the wave rolls the water and the water continues rolling (moving) down to the beach until it reaches a sand bar, of where the sand starts getting higher and as the sea floor gets higher the wave get higher causing peaks like mountains and when the sand is really high because it's close to the sea shore where people swim and surf the waves break, which forms a current down to the shore, sometimes longshore drift.

5. My advice would be to stay away from the huge waves such as a maverick wave as it is very dangerous and could cause major injury such as paraplegic or even worse, death. If surfers wish to surf those waves then so be it, I would let them surf it but if they get injured or died then I wouldn't feel sympthetic to them, only the family. It's fine for them to surf smaller waves.

Definitions for Chapter 7: Coasts

Constructive waves—small low-energy waves that deposit sand onto beaches.

Corrasion—occurs when waves crash over rock shelves and move rock and other material helping to erode the rock shelf away.

Corrosion—the actions of salt on minerals like iron that are contained in rock, weakening the rock and making it more susceptible to erosion.

Deposition—the depositing of sand and rock particles caused by wind and wave action forming features such as beaches.

Destructive waves—large waves formed by tropical cyclones and storms that erode material from beaches.

Erosion—the removal of rock and sand particles as a result of wind and wave action.

Fetch—the distance that wind travels over the ocean to form Waves.

Foredune—the closest dune to the ocean or the first dune in a sand dune system.

Hydraulic action—where waves enter cracks in rocks, air is compressed by the force of the water causing erosion and forming features such as blow holes.

Longshore drift—the process, caused by waves hitting the coast at an angle, which is responsible for moving sand along the coast.

Refraction—the bending of waves around headlands and into bays surf and swash zone—the active part of the coast in terms of erosion and deposition of sand by wave action; the surf zone is immediately adjacent to the coast and the swash zone is at the shore once the waves have broken vegetation.

Succession—the natural progression of vegetation from low-lying, salt-tolerant plants on the foredune, through to shrubs and established trees on the hind dunes.

Wave height—the vertical distance between the trough and the peak of a wave

Wavelength—the horizontal distance between waves peaks

7.3 Geographical Processes Shaping the Coastal Environment

7.2 Waves- Water on Move

Geographical Issues in the Coastal Environment- 7.1 Activities Questions

1.       The settlement pattern of Australia is related to issues in the coastal environment because buildings or skyscrapers being next to the coast or the beach mean there would be 85% of the population living within just 50km of the coastal zone.

2.       The sustainable development of the coastline is the aim of coastal management strategies because people may ruin or help turn the coast into a dangerous and unhygenic place to be.

3.    The trend called 'Sea Change' is overdevelopment and rapid growth of coastal areas occur due to the current Australian trend for people to move from large cities to smaller coastal towns and villages where the lifestyle is more relaxed.

4.    The government response to 'sea change' was that some towns along the east coast of Australia have imposed residential caps or a population ceiling for their town in an effort to stop overdevelopment of the area.

5.     Pollution- Humans are a big problem when it comes to pollution because people just litter;    not all people do but most do. When people go to the beach they buy food from the fast food stores around there or they bring their own but it still ends up in the same place, next to the water and sometimes the sea takes the rubbish out to sea and animals try and eat it and die.

        Tourism and Recreational pressures- The coasts are popular destinations for residents and tourism. Tourist developments and resorts are concentrated in particular areas along the coast. The places can increase or double especially during holiday times, which places pressure on the infrastructure and environment of the area.  

        Population Growth- With the population growing, it will cause overdevelopment and rapid growth of coastal areas, which will make the beaches overcrowded and all the infrastructure around it will weaken and hazards may occur.

        Introduced Plants- Areas along the coast have been invaded by introduced plants. The bitou bush was introduced into Australia from South Africa in 1908 to help the sand dunes but they do not give the dunes enough protection from wind erosion than the native plants do.

6.     Geographers play quite a huge role in the developing management solutions as they are the one that know whats going on or whats happening and so they tell or report to the governments to try and fix the problem that the coast may be facing whether it be pollution or sand dune erosion.